A Walk Around Torrox in Andalusia

My parents recently moved house down in the south of Spain and have now made their base just outside of the lovely town of Torrox in Andalusia. So the last time I went for a visit, we decided to take a walk around Torrox.

Things to do in Tarifa

Tarifa is known for its windy weather, which attracts many kite and wind surfers. But even if you are not so keen on jumping on a board, this windy town offers a lot of other cool things to do as well.

Hurricane Hotel in Tarifa

Last week I headed to Spain again to see my parents who live near Malaga and they took me on a weekend trip to the Hurricane Hotel in Tarifa.

Exploring the Costa Brava

The Costa Brava usually brings to mind images of wild nights out and sleeping off hangovers on the beach. But really, there is more to the ‘Wild Coast’ than that. The stretch of coast between the coastal resort of Palamos and L'Estartit to the north is home to some real seaside gems, without the massive resort hotels and thumping strip of nightclubs. And with loads of low-cost airlines serving the Girona Airport, this area is easily accessible with local companies offering airport transfers.

Pals

Pals is a favourite. It's a medieval town that lies on a hill with narrow streets meandering upwards where you'll be treated to far-reaching views across te surrounding plains. It lies slightly inland, but its seaside version is a lovely tranquil beach town with white sandy beaches and clear waters.  There are a number of hotels, but they are mainly smaller than the massive resorts you'll see in towns like Tossa del Mar and Lloret del Mar. It has a real traditional Spanish feel to it.

Photo by Montse Poch under Creative Commons Licence

Five Must-See Cities around Malaga

There's lots to see and do in Malaga, but I'm sure you'll come to a point on your trip to this fabulous city, where you'll want to explore the surrounding area as well. If you're not sure where to head to, here are some of my favourite cities near Malaga.

The Mudejar Route in Andalusia

The Mudejar Route is 75 kilometres long and located in the hinterland of Andalusia. It takes in the small, white-washed towns of Arenas, Archez, Salares, Sedella and Canillas de Aceituno. They all have Mudejar remains that are still in a relatively good state. A few weeks ago my parents and I drove along part of the route and visited Archez, Salares and Sedellas.

My Favourite Travel Meal

It's blog link up time again with Runaway Kiwi, Adventures of a London Kiwi and 80 Pairs of Shoes and this month's topic is favorite travel meal. All week I've been trying to think of where and when that was exactly, but there have been so many.

I've had some of the best and oddest fruit juices in Brazil. Every morning I went down to a local juice bar where they are pressed right in front of you and tried a different one, ranging from the more mundane pineapple and papaya juice to cashew and graviola juice. Mixing a couple of them together is also very yummie.

My favourite food is Indonesian Padang Padang food. So good they named it twice is also applicable to the Sumatran cuisine that is widely available outside of the island of Sumatra. You can recognise the Padang restaurants by the many stacked bowls filled with delicious spicy dishes ranging from chicken legs to cassava leaves and eggplant. It's very spicy so lots of ice cold beer is advisory.

Photo by P3rSeUs off Flickr

My second favourite food is Italian and travelling to Italy is like dying and going to food heaven. When I was in Sorrento I had plates full of pasta every night, eating everything on my plate till I could eat no more. The morning meals were a feat as well as I discovered that the Italians are masters in creating breakfast pastries as well. Not so great for the ole waistline though.

I love tapas and the best ones are to be found in the Basque country in the north of Spain. Here the tapas are skewered on a piece of bread and range from succulent pork or omelet on bread to the more daring urchin and liver paste on bread. Do watch the teeth as the bread can be a tad hard sometimes. I'm speaking from experience here.

But to be honest there is one thing that just beats all of these meals I had while travelling around the world. The best meal I ever had was one I had at home after I'd been away from Holland for three months on an internship in the US. The first thing I did was drop my bags at home. I looked for my shopping bag and headed to my local supermarket for some fresh sunflower seed bread and spreadable liverwurst, aka Dutch pate. Never ever have I enjoyed a meal as much as that simple sandwich in my Amsterdam kitchen. So as much as I like to dabble in foreign cuisine, there's just nothing like a simple homemade sandwich. 

Sherry Tasting in Jerez

Jerez de la Frontera is the birth place of sherry and of course when you're in the neigbourhood, one can't pass by without doing some sherry tasting. And so we did.

                    This photo of Bodegas Tio Pepe is courtesy of TripAdvisor


There are tons of different bodegas to choose from in Jerez, but we opted for Tio Pepe. Really only because of their cute logo as I know absolutely nothing about sherry. But I was eager to learn and eager to drink.

                    This photo of Bodegas Tio Pepe is courtesy of TripAdvisor

The Tio Pepe or Gonzalez-Byass bodega is located next to the big cathedral in the centre of town. It's not a small bodega so perhaps not the most intimate of tours we could've booked. The tour lasts for about an hour and a half and starts with a movie about the history of the Gonzalez-Byass legacy. This is followed by a walking tour among the barrels of solera which is a term that is used for the aging process the liquid goes through before it ends up in a bottle.

                               This photo of Bodegas Tio Pepe is courtesy of TripAdvisor

The tour continues through sheds and halls with more barrels where the guide tells us that the only resident of the bodega, which is a mouse, is well taken care of with its own little glass of sherry (which he/she drinks from a tiny ladder) accompanied with bits of cheese. We're shown barrels that are signed by famous visitors such as Kings and queens of Spain, but also people like Picasso, Senna and Churchill.

Photo by James and Vilija off Flickr

Then we hop on a little train that takes us past some more halls and sheds and past a mini vineyard which acts as an example of what the real thing looks like located outside of Jerez. The tour ends with a tasting of two sherries accompanied with some crisps. After all I learned about this beverage, I'm eager to try, but still can't shake the thought that it smells and tastes like nail polish remover. So I give my second glass to my mum, who leaves the bodega in a very, very happy state.

White Villages in Andalusia

When you think of Andalusia, you think of the White Villages which according to many guidebooks and travel websites are located in the province of Cadiz. But one wise Spanish man from Andalusia once said: What white villages are you talking about? All the villages in Andalusia are white. So really, you can take your pick and here are some of the villages I visited last week.

Sayalonga
Literally it means long skirt and long it certainly is. I'm not sure where the skirt bit came from though. The village is draped over the edge of a hilly ridge and you do need to be relatively fit to walk from one end to the other. There's a lively town square with some cafes and a market on some days. There's even a museum about the town's history.

However, the highlight is its cemetery. In this area they don't bury the dead. They are resting in small tombs above ground, apparently because the ground is too hard. It's a very peaceful place with views across the surrounding foothills.

Torrox
Torrox lies East of Sayalonga. It's also perched on the hillside and lots of character. It's centred around the Plaza de la Constitución, the town square with plenty of cafes and outdoor dining options. For nosy explorers there are official walking routes that are clearly signposted on the white walls of the town shops and residences.

You can visit and old Roman villa and there is a charming chapel just outside of town, overlooking the Med and unfortunately, the newly built highway. If things get too hot, you can hit the beach at Torrox Costa and stroll along the wide boulevard lined with restaurants and cafes.

Alcaucín
Alcaucín lies inland, on the edge of a natural park called Sierras de Tejeda. The name of the town stems from the time when Arabs still ruled this part of the world and it means the Arcs, although no one seems to know why. It's a compact village with narrow streets that seem like a labyrinth. We had a peek in the town's church, had a cool drink from the colourfully tiled town fountain and had lunch on a shady terrace at one of the restaurants.

These are but three examples of the many villages that are dotted throughout the region. All of them have their own charm and character and of course they are very very white.

Europe's Balcony in Nerja

On the winding, coastal road between Malaga and Almunecar, lies Nerja, a small, originally Moorish town with narrow streets and white houses. It's a bit of a tourist hub, but worth a wander around if only for the mesmerising and far-stretching views from its promenade, also known as the Europe's Balcony.

Europe's Balcony was built where once stood a Moorish castle, perched on top of steep cliffs that tower over secluded inlets and intimate beaches. How lucky were the Moorish kings and queens to wake up to views like these every day. Now the atmosphere in the former castle court is a tad bit less regal, but lively nonetheless. In summer the promenade lined with restaurants, ice cream parlour and outdoor cafes attract many visitors from all over the world.

Tucked away in the back of the adjacent square you find the Iglesia El Salvador, a white washed church with an impressive clock tower. Inside the effigies that villagers carry around town during Semana Santa, or Holy Week, are on display.

On the other side there are some intimate restaurants that serve decent local fare you can enjoy on their balconies overlooking the beach below. Anahi is usually the place we go for, but next door Portofino's views are just as stunning.

Nerja's other main tourist attraction are the caves that weren't discovered till the late 50s. In summer concerts are held in one of the underground auditoriums here.

Do be aware that Nerja is a very popular British holiday destination and sometimes it sounds like you're in Southampton instead of Spain, albeit with much better views.

Buddhist Kalachakra Stupa in Velez-Malaga

Finding Buddha in Spain is probably the last thing you'd expect on the Costa del Sol, but that is exactly what happened today. Tucked away in the foothills of the Maroma mountain, north of the town of Velez de Malaga, is a Buddhist Stupa that looks out across the valley dotted with mango, avocado and olive orchards. It's called the Kalachakra stupa.

Tucked away it sure was. The drive through the countryside up the steep roads can only be done by 4 wheel drive. After what seemed like eternity of being shaken about in the car that was bouncing on the dirt road ridden with holes and rocks, we reached a serene looking driveway lined with pine trees. It was cordoned off with a metal chain, but we parked the car, climbed over the chain and started walking up the driveway. Between the coniferous branches of the trees, glimpses of the glaringly white stupa were visible as we approached the open space.

I know nothing abut Buddhism, but this place just oozed serenity. There were several retreats hidden in the bushes on the side. There was a small shrine with pictures of the founder and offerings to Buddha and strings with colourful flags were fluttering in the wind. The views were far-reaching with several white villages draped on the hills around.

There was no one to explain us a little bit more about it, just an information sign. It said that this stupa was built in the 1990s and was the first one to be built in the west by Pedro Gomez, a Spaniard who travelled to Tibet and wanted to bring Buddhism to the west. He did so under the guidance of a leading monk named Lopon Tsechu Rinpoche. This type of stupa, called a Kalachakra is one of five around the world.

It also said that aside from being a place for offerings and meditation, a stupa fulfills wishes. You just need to walk around it clockwise and your wishes might very well come true. I did walk a couple of rounds around it, wishing for good fortune and happiness.

On our way down to the car, I saw something glistening in the middle of the road. When I looked a little closer it turned out to be a 5 euro cent coin. Coincidence? It did make me wonder...

A Visit to Getaria

When in San Sebastian last week, my travel buddies and I decided to pay a visit to Getaria. We had read about this small fishing village in the north of Spain on several online tourism guides and since the weather wasn’t tempting us into slipping into our bikinis and hitting the beach, we decided to check it out.

Getaria has been around for some time and remains of its old medieval wall are still present. At some point the town was home to Balenciaga, the famous fashion designer and Juan Sebastián Elcano who was the first person to travel around the world. Both are very much revered here with a museum and a couple of monuments.

It took some effort to get to Getaria from San Sebastian, but that was entirely our own fault. Tip #1 : Make sure you correctly pronounce the name when asking for directions as you’re going to end up somewhere inland that doesn’t look like a fishing village at all. Tip #2: Check before you travel as when we went there was a bus replacing the regular bus adding on to our travel time Tip #3: Don’t listen to the taxi driver that asks you what the hell you’re going to do there and says that some other town is a lot nicer. For when we got there we found it was an absolute delightful little town.

We walked around the main street and hit the first pintxos bar we found, just in time before siesta time. Filled up on chorizo, tortilla and jamon, we were ready to explore. We walked around the narrow streets and stepped alleys and happened upon an interesting church called Iglesia de San Salvador. It’s a gothic style building at the end of the main street. From the outside it doesn’t look all that spectacular, but it’s the inside that’s the interesting part as the floor of this church’ floor is sloping down from front to back.

We walked along the quays lined with fisheries, restaurants, bars. It was a shame it wasn’t tea time as we would’ve loved to try some freshly caught fish on the grill, which Getaria is known for. We continued our walk towards the Balenciaga museum and took a breather on a bench next to the Elcano monument overlooking the Mediterranean. This spot is the start of a pedestrian path that runs along the coast, separate from the road and leads all the way to neighbouring Zarautz 6km away. It would’ve been a nice walk if the weather had been a bit more inviting.

We walked back into town which was waking up after siesta. Of course we couldn’t leave this town without having tried its local specialty txacolina. It’s a refreshing, lightly sparkling white wine that’s produced in the area which went down very well, especially paired with some manchego cheese.

We hopped onto the bus taking us back to San Sebastian. Unfortunately it was the slow bus. Fortunately the slow bus takes a route that snakes through the Basque country side with small streams, green hills and small villages offering some superb vistas. A perfect way to end our visit to Getaria.

Koh Tao Cafe-bar San Sebastián

we were trying to stay warm and dry from the horrible weather the Spanish weather Gods had bestowed on us, we happened on this place called Koh Tao in San Sebastián, smack in the middle of the shopping area of this coastal town in the north of Spain.

It's one of those no nonsense places with lots of comfy couches, a mishmash of furniture and table ware that doesn't match. There's free WiFi as well and the atmosphere is laid-back and welcoming. There's some seating outside in front of the cafe, which is great for people watching. It's a great spot to hang about on a rainy day, read a bit or do some internet surfing while enjoying a good cup of coffee.

We were on a quest for breakfast and they do serve some yummie ones at Koh Tao in San Sebastián. They serve a variety of breakfasts ranging from toasted croissants, thick slices of toast with jam and a variety of sweet pastries accompanied with fresh orange juice and a choice of coffee. The cappuccinos are worth ordering if only for the way the staff decorate them. They're almost too pretty to drink. Don't miss out on their signature hazelnut hot chocolate, which is absolutely delicious.

In the evening Koh Tao turns into a bar, attracting a hip and trendy crowd. The furniture is pushed aside, the music gets louder and the drinks more adventurous. There's a wide variety of cocktails on the menu as well as the usual suspects such as San Miguel, wine and other spirits.

Check out Koh Tao's facebook fan page and click here.